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July 22nd, 2024

Hold onto your barrel, laddies! This June, Ben and I (Jess) finally uncorked a dream that had been aging for nearly 40 years - our bucket list trip to the motherlands of whisky and golf. We spent a week in Scotland followed by a week in Ireland, soaking up the spirits, sights, and stories that make these places the holy grail for barrel enthusiasts like us.

Curious about what tickled our fancy and fired up our imaginations? We've distilled our experiences into a Top 10 list that's sure to give you a mix of inspiration and wanderlust. So, grab your favorite dram, and let's dive into the best of Scotland and Ireland through the eyes of two midwest barrel slingers!

Instead of tackling the legendary Old Course, I booked us at one of St. Andrews Links' sister courses thinking it would be more up to par for my novice skill level. Pro tip: Scottish golf is serious business. Those two things I enjoy most about golf back home - the cart and the drinking - are as rare here as a kilt in Nebraska.

But fear not, fellow novices! Take my strategy: sport your best golf fashion and look for the most picturesque photo ops. Fake it 'til you make it -- amiright?!?!

What can we say, sometimes the best drams come in unexpected casks.

Our Girvan distillery host - clearly a barrel of knowledge - recommended the Turnberry Golf Resort. And boy, it did not disappoint! Perched on the ocean's edge, it offers views of the island Ailsa Craig (a bird mecca and the mining location of all olympic curling rocks), enchanting sea views, an iconic lighthouse, and traditional Scottish hospitality. 

Turnberry was originally designed as a golf resort in the early 1900s. It played double duty during both World Wars when the hotel was transformed into a hospital and the golf course served as an airfield. Ben geeked out over the history, while I was busy admiring the architecture. But the real show stopper? The nightly 6pm bagpipes. It was like stepping into every Scotland tourism ad ever - but better, because we could smell the sea and almost taste the whisky in the air.

Fair warning: our schedule shake-up meant Ben missed out on golfing here. So, like a whisky lover with an unfinished bottle, we're already planning our return. The Speyside whisky region followed by a Turnberry tee time? Sounds like the perfect excuse for another Scottish adventure!

This isn't your average tourist stop; it's a whisky lover's dream that's usually off-limits to public tours.

One of Scotland's largest distilleries, Girvan is a crown jewel in the William Grant & Sons empire (you know, the folks behind Glenfiddich and The Balvenie). But Girvan's got its own claim to fame, being home to Ailsa Bay whisky and the botanical beauty that is Hendrick's Gin. 

The moment you step onto the Girvan campus, you're hit with a double shot of awe - part from the sheer size of the operation, part from those stunning views of the sea and Ailsa Craig. It's like they picked the most beautiful spot in Scotland and said, “Aye lass, cannae think of a better spot for our bonnie drams.”

Now, let's talk barrels. Barrel Ben (predictably) favored the expansive barrel warehouses. Picture this: 64 warehouses, each one a cathedral to the art of aging spirits, holding a mind-boggling 3.4 million barrels of liquid gold. That's more barrels than DOUBLE there are people in Louisville, KY! It's a sight that'll make any barrel enthusiasts pause - beautiful, intimidating, and absolutely awe-inspiring all at once.

Visiting Girvan was like peeking behind the curtain of the whisky world. It's not just about the spirits they produce; it's about the scale, the craft, and the sheer dedication that goes into every drop. If there's one thing that'll make you appreciate that next glass of scotch even more, it's seeing where it all begins.

Enter the Hendrick's Gin Palace - a gin lover's paradise that deserves its own special spot on our highlight reel.

Imagine a place where science meets whimsy, and botany dances with distillation. That's the Gin Palace for you. With its gleaming glass atrium flanked by two lush tropical greenhouses, it's like stepping into an eccentric botanist's dream. These aren't just for show, folks – they're experimenting with plants that might just be the next big thing in gin. Talk about growing your own cocktail!

The attention to detail here would make even the most particular barrel cooper nod in approval. Every nook and cranny tells a story, with the original still standing proud as the star of the show. Even the elevator ride is an experience – it's like taking a trip in Willy Wonka's great glass gin-evator!

But the real cherry on top? Meeting Lesley Gracie herself, the mastermind behind Hendrick's Gin. It's not every day you get to shake hands with someone who's revitalized cocktail culture with a contemporary new product. I was so awestruck by the honor of getting a private tour of Lesley Gracie's lab, but I somehow managed to keep my cool. To peek behind the curtain with such an innovative and creative genius was quite the honor. The experience left me nearly speechless - and trust me, that doesn't happen often! It was truly such a privilege.

Pro tip from yours truly: The first question Ms. Gracie asked, “Do you have any chocolate?” Alas, I had none. And let me tell you, I've never regretted not carrying sweets more in my life. You can bet your bottom barrel that I'll be packing chocolate on all future Scotland trips. Just in case, you know?

Meeting Ms. Gracie was the perfect reminder that whether a spirit is aged in barrels or infused with botanicals, the spirits world is full of passion, innovation, and a dash of madness – just the way we like it!

Nestled along the iconic River Clyde, Clydeside has found its home in the old Queen's Dock, breathing new life into the historic pumphouse. Picture this: the very spot that once controlled the ebb and flow of Glasgow's maritime trade (and scotch exports) now oversees the creation of liquid gold. Talk about a career change!

Our guide on this journey through time and whisky was none other than distillery manager Alistair McDonald. With proud enthusiasm, Mr. McDonald walked us through Clydeside's story - from blueprint to bottle. It was like watching a master craftsman unveil their crowning achievement, each detail of the distillery's conception and growth carefully recounted.

As we toured the facility, it felt like we were straddling two worlds - the weight of Glasgow's industrial past beneath our feet, and the bright future of Scotch whisky production all around us. Clydeside isn't just making whisky; it's bottling a piece of Glasgow's legacy.

In a city that's always reinventing itself, Clydeside Distillery stands as a testament to Glasgow's ability to honor its past while forging boldly into the future. It's a reminder that great whisky, like great cities, is built on layers of history, innovation, and a wee bit of magic.

If it wouldn't have been for the thick Irish accents I would have thought we were back at home in the midwest!

West Cork was started in 2003 by three lads that grew up as childhood pals. What struck me most was how fiercely independent these folks are. In a world where big corporations snap up distilleries like Ben collects bourbon bottles, West Cork stands proud as the largest privately owned Irish Whiskey producer.

Barrel Ben was like a kid in a candy store when John opened up his liquor cabinet and told him to pick something out. Me? I was obsessing over the fact that we got to sign the “whiskey wall.” I let Ben sign on behalf of both of us and then got worried because no one can ever read his handwriting. If you ever make it there let me know if you find us (proof it’s legible)!

As we toured the facility, chatting with the team and soaking in the passion they have for their craft, I couldn't help but think: this is what happens when you let the heart of a community pour into a bottle. West Cork isn't just making whiskey; they're distilling the very essence of Irish spirit - independent, innovative, and deeply rooted in their home turf.

From Scotland to Ireland, we witnessed a collective commitment to sustainability that would make Captain Planet raise a dram in approval. These distilleries aren't just crafting fine spirits; they're brewing up a storm of eco-friendly practices that deserve their own spotlight on our highlight reel.

Take the stills, for instance. In both Scotland and Ireland, they don't just discard these copper beauties when they show signs of age. Oh no, they're like the Betty Whites of the whiskey world - cherished, maintained, and kept working long past retirement age. The distillers joked they were too cheap to buy new ones, but let's raise a glass to their "frugality" - it's a win-win for both their wallets and Mother Nature.

Now, let me tell you about Girvan Distillery. These folks have taken "waste not, want not" to a whole new level. They're not just making whisky; they're powering their entire operation with the leftovers from the distillation process. Talk about drinking responsibly!

Not to be outdone, Clydeside Distillery in Glasgow is playing its part in keeping the city's lights on. They ship their whisky waste to a local power plant, turning yesterday's mash into tomorrow's electricity.

Across the Irish Sea, West Cork Distillery is flying the green flag high. They're all about keeping it local, sourcing their grains from nearby farms and ensuring every bit of waste finds a new purpose. And get this - they're fueling their stills with natural gas, shrinking their carbon footprint faster than you can say "Sláinte!"

It's clear that for these distilleries, sustainability isn't just a buzzword - it's as crucial to their process as yeast is to fermentation. They're proving that you can respect tradition while embracing innovation, and that being eco-friendly doesn't mean sacrificing quality.

So next time you raise a glass of Scotch or Irish whiskey, remember - you're not just sipping on centuries of tradition. You're tasting the future of responsible distilling. Now that's something worth toasting to!

Picture this: towering cliffs that look like they were carved by giants, waves crashing dramatically below, and a view that stretches out to forever. It's the kind of place that makes you wonder if you've somehow stumbled onto a movie set. And guess what? You have! Harry Potter fans, you might recognize these majestic cliffs from "The Half-Blood Prince." No magic wands needed here, though - the real-life scenery is spell-binding enough.

Now, I've got to confess something. Heights and I? Ummm, no thank you. Usually, I keep my feet firmly planted, preferably at sea level. But there's something about Ireland that makes you want to embrace your wild side. So, in a moment of "when in Ireland" madness, I decided to do my daily plank... right on the edge of a cliff! But hey, how often do you get to say you've planked on the edge of one of the world's most famous cliffs?

Let me tell you, friends, if you're ever in Ireland, the Cliffs of Moher are a must-see. It's the perfect palate cleanser between distillery visits. After all, what goes better with world-class whiskey than world-class views?

Ultimately, we chose Dingle - because let's face it, 8 hours on winding one-lane roads is a recipe for disaster when you're as car-sick-prone as I am. Sorry, Ring of Kerry, maybe next time (with a hefty supply of motion sickness pills)!

Dingle (and surrounding areas) turned out to be a choose-your-own-adventure book come to life. One minute we're on a crowded beach, the next we're alone on a stretch of sand, feeling like we've discovered our own private Ireland. The terrain? It's like Mother Nature couldn't make up her mind, so she threw in a bit of everything.

But the real highlight? A little detour that turned into a big adventure. Picture this: Barrel Ben, with his eagle eyes (probably honed from years of spotting rare whiskeys), spots what he swears is a lake up a mountainside. Now, accessing this lake meant scaling a mountain of wet boulders. Did I mention I'm not a fan of heights?

There I was, clinging to my hiking sticks like they were the last bottle of Pappy Van Winkle, while Ben questioned their necessity. (Note to self: next time, bring a flask instead - at least that would've calmed my nerves!) I may or may not have been muttering some choice words under my breath as we climbed. But let me tell you, when we reached the top? That view was breathtaking and worth every wobble and near-slip!

Of course, no adventure is complete without a moment of panic. After our descent (which was about as graceful as me after a full day of distillery tours), we had a heart-stopping moment when we thought we'd lost the car keys. Pro tip: Always check your pockets before having a meltdown on a remote mountainside. Trust me, it's not the kind of souvenir you want to bring home!

So, if you're ever faced with the Dingle vs. Ring of Kerry dilemma, and you're not keen on testing your motion sickness limits, take a chance on Dingle. It's got beaches, mountains, lakes, and enough adventure to make you forget you're missing out on that other ring. 

These quirks are like the surprise notes in a complex whisky - unexpected, but they make the whole experience richer.

First up, the roads. Imagine if someone decided to mirror-flip everything you know about driving. That's the UK and Ireland for you! Ben handled it like a seasoned distiller handles a new recipe - with confidence and skill. But let me offer you two golden nuggets of wisdom:

1. Get that international car insurance. Unlike in the US, it's not automatically applied. Consider it your safety net, like the angel's share is for whisky makers.

2. Don't, I repeat, DON'T hop off an overnight flight and straight into a cross country roadtrip. You'll be more bleary-eyed than a tourist after a day of distillery tours.

Why the emphasis on being alert? Enter the infamous "50/50 roads". Picture this: a single-lane road where, if you meet another car head-on, you're each 50% responsible. It's like a game of chicken, but with cars and insurance claims.

Now, let's talk about the people. The locals are bonnie nice. Their accents might be thicker than the head on a perfectly poured Guinness, but don't let that stop you from savoring words like "lad", "lass", and "bonnie". And the bagpipes! They're like black licorice - you either love 'em or hate 'em, but they're undeniably part of the experience.

Last but not least, a toast to their menus! For a gluten-free lass like me, their clear allergen labeling was a godsend. It made navigating meals easier than finding a pub in Dublin.

So there you have it, folks. The UK and Ireland: where the roads are backward, the people are forward, the music is loud, and the menus are crystal clear. It's a place where every day feels like St. Patrick's Day. Just remember to look right, then left, then right again before crossing the street. Sláinte and cheers to that!